浪漫之国的甜点文化（一）

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浪漫之国的甜点文化（一）

每个女人心中都有两个巴黎梦，一个在香榭丽舍大街，另一个就在琳琅满目的甜点橱窗前。五彩斑斓的甜点世界如果抹去法式的浪漫，可能就只剩下黑白。

传统的法式甜点就仿佛是甜点界的柏拉图，在他之后的甜点文化只是对其进行补充和诠释。你可以不习惯法国高贵冷艳的气质和姗姗来迟的风格，但正是因为这些因素孕育了他无可替代的地位。在这个快速消费品的时代，他们无视大众，依旧放慢脚步，对甜点从选材到加工制作的每一步都有着近乎完美的苛刻要求。

他们可以用几个星期只为从可可树的花中挑选最饱满无痕的可可豆制可可粉；用几个月只为寻找一片纯野生优质薰衣草园萃取精华；用几年的时间只为等待一个新配方熟成。

玛德琳（Madeleine Commercy）

玛德琳可能是所有甜点中文艺范最浓的，想不到小小的蛋糕，竟是大文豪普鲁斯灵感的触发点。

在《追忆似水年华》普鲁斯写到“带着点心渣的那一勺茶碰到我的上颚，顿时使我浑身一震，我注意到我身上发生了非同小可的变化，一种舒坦的快感传遍全身，我感到超凡脱俗。”当这枚小点心混入茶水，在他的嘴中交融，像是一枚炸弹投入了深海，瞬间爆发激活了投入海底的记忆，作家感到醍醐灌顶，文思之门从此打开。据说它得名与女厨师玛德琳娜（Madeleine Paulmier），其色泽金黄，贝壳状，是法国甜点中的代表之一。

虽是裸蛋糕，但玛德琳甜度偏高，一定要像大文豪一样搭配清淡的红茶才能带出其魅力。

马卡龙（Macaron）

马卡龙是最具有法国式浪漫色彩的甜点，其名字“少女的酥胸”就已经让人产生无限遐想。

马卡龙最初的配方追述到意大利文艺复兴时期（Macaron来自意大利语，杏仁面粉。

1533年，美第奇家族的凯瑟琳（后来的奥尔良公爵夫人）将马卡龙带入凡尔赛宫。但马卡龙最初的版本只是普通的杏仁蛋白饼，没有内陷儿。直到后来对马卡龙有着划时代意义的巴黎甜点师Lauduree出现，他在简单的杏仁蛋白饼中加入奶油馅和果酱，色彩缤纷的马卡龙便开始一发不可收拾。

法国历史上最褒贬不一的王后玛丽安托瓦内特就是马卡龙最忠实的粉丝.

在电影《绝代艳后》中，导演索菲亚科波拉打造了一个马卡龙色的凡尔赛宫，宛若一个梦幻的洛可可花园。

这部电影给了人们许多关于马卡龙和玛丽安托瓦内特的认知——当他们说“玛丽安托瓦内特式的”指的往往就是“马卡龙式的”.

Laduree是马卡龙最著名的品牌，如果你没吃过Laduree，可千万不要轻易评价马卡龙。因为这是一款失败率极高的甜点，其“酥”就来自与对制作和存放过程中温度和湿度的严格控制，所以一般的甜点店做不出好吃的马卡龙再正常不过了。

从Laduree分支出来的Pierre Herme品牌则青出于蓝，被誉为马卡龙中的爱马仕。

另外还有一个大家可能不太熟悉的是法国老牌Dalloyau

Dalloyau是十九世纪专贡宫廷甜品的膳食官民，他的子孙以他名字成立的Dalloyau也是法国最具代表性的马卡龙甜品屋。

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