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[其他] 揭秘珠宝高级私人定制流程

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发表于 2014-11-3 10:01:33 | 只看该作者 |只看大图 回帖奖励 |倒序浏览 |阅读模式
越来越多的珠宝迷对定制珠宝产生了浓烈兴趣,私人定制是近年珠宝行业的新时尚,要求十分专业,我们就全面展示高级珠宝首饰的生产制作全过程,带你走近高级珠宝私人定制背后的故事。

珠宝定制首先离不开设计,而设计创意有两个来源,第一是内部设计师原创,第二是根据客户需求进行专有设计。珠宝设计不仅仅是画个概念图稿,必须制定工艺和成本方案。单件定制客户往往不是专家,他们需要与专业人员进行交流,以便确定可行的方案。其实,珠宝设计是一个在创意、造型、材料、工艺和成本之间不断妥协的过程。

1 确定客户需求

设计师与客户之间的交流
珠宝设计一般开始于手绘图稿。后期,设计团队会以此为蓝本进行不断细化和调整。

2 扫描宝石

对于来石定制的客户,要先进行宝石扫描,以获取精确的尺寸,刻面分布和3D结构数据。设计师在CAD起版阶段可以方便的调用该模型,进行排石定位和虚拟装配等设计。

一 准备对宝石进行3D测量

二 获取规格数据

三 生成3D宝石几何体

3 使用CAD珠宝设计软件进行起版设计
珠宝设计cad软件可以进行造型设计,快速排石等操作,可以利用其预置的参数化模块,快速生成镶口、宝石、戒圈或标准件,大大提高设计效率和精度。然后定位宝石,生成镶口和镶爪



4 制作蜡版

将CAD设计完成的3D模型输出到3D打印机中,可快速精准的打印出蜡版。

喷蜡机3D成型的蜡版,也可以一次成型多个客户的蜡版。



5 铸造

使用失蜡铸造法(也称精密铸造)制作铸件。下图为准备石膏模

加热烘焙石膏模

种蜡树,将多个客户的蜡版“种”在蜡树上,以便一次性铸造出来

蜡树与铸造出来的胚件。

将各个首饰铸件剪下来,以便分别加工。下图为铸件与最终产品的对比图



6 执模

主要工作为:修饰、修补工件缺陷,对工件进行整形、焊接、初步打磨铸件表面、装配珠宝配件等等。

准备好需要的铸件

对结合部进行修整、打磨、组装和焊接

7 镶嵌

一旦完成执模,马上进入镶嵌流程。主要是将主石、配石固定在各自的镶口上,这是一个非常重要的精密工序。

通过显微镜进行镶嵌

8 抛光和表面处理

镶嵌完成后,进行最后的抛光。确保金属表面光亮如镜。最后使用激光打标设备在指定位置进行刻字工序。


电镀后的首饰



9 质量检验

设计团队不光要对最终成品进行质量检验,更需要对珠宝制造的每个阶段进行质量控制,这对一个完美的设计是绝对必要的。

质量检验—检查每个镶爪和镶口的工艺质量

对外观、结构、表面进行最后的检查。

完成!

看到这里,是不是对珠宝设计和制作有了更深的了解?的确,一件美丽的珠宝不仅凝聚着珠宝设计师和工艺技师的心血,严苛的工艺质量体系将保证每件首饰都是完美的作品,而且,这样的一件专属珠宝,无疑是最适合自身品味与气质的佩戴首饰,更是一件有价值的收藏品!






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发表于 2014-11-7 14:15:47 | 只看该作者

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发表于 2014-11-15 03:39:04 | 只看该作者

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发表于 2014-11-26 15:30:10 | 只看该作者
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发表于 2014-12-13 22:47:58 | 只看该作者

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