揭秘珠宝高级私人定制流程

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越来越多的珠宝迷对定制珠宝产生了浓烈兴趣，私人定制是近年珠宝行业的新时尚，要求十分专业，我们就全面展示高级珠宝首饰的生产制作全过程，带你走近高级珠宝私人定制背后的故事。

珠宝定制首先离不开设计，而设计创意有两个来源，第一是内部设计师原创，第二是根据客户需求进行专有设计。珠宝设计不仅仅是画个概念图稿，必须制定工艺和成本方案。单件定制客户往往不是专家，他们需要与专业人员进行交流，以便确定可行的方案。其实，珠宝设计是一个在创意、造型、材料、工艺和成本之间不断妥协的过程。

1 确定客户需求

设计师与客户之间的交流
珠宝设计一般开始于手绘图稿。后期，设计团队会以此为蓝本进行不断细化和调整。

2 扫描宝石

对于来石定制的客户，要先进行宝石扫描，以获取精确的尺寸，刻面分布和3D结构数据。设计师在CAD起版阶段可以方便的调用该模型，进行排石定位和虚拟装配等设计。

一 准备对宝石进行3D测量

二 获取规格数据

三 生成3D宝石几何体

3 使用CAD珠宝设计软件进行起版设计
珠宝设计cad软件可以进行造型设计，快速排石等操作，可以利用其预置的参数化模块，快速生成镶口、宝石、戒圈或标准件，大大提高设计效率和精度。然后定位宝石，生成镶口和镶爪

4 制作蜡版

将CAD设计完成的3D模型输出到3D打印机中，可快速精准的打印出蜡版。

喷蜡机3D成型的蜡版，也可以一次成型多个客户的蜡版。

5 铸造

使用失蜡铸造法（也称精密铸造）制作铸件。下图为准备石膏模

加热烘焙石膏模

种蜡树，将多个客户的蜡版“种”在蜡树上，以便一次性铸造出来

蜡树与铸造出来的胚件。

将各个首饰铸件剪下来，以便分别加工。下图为铸件与最终产品的对比图

6 执模

主要工作为：修饰、修补工件缺陷，对工件进行整形、焊接、初步打磨铸件表面、装配珠宝配件等等。

准备好需要的铸件

对结合部进行修整、打磨、组装和焊接

7 镶嵌

一旦完成执模，马上进入镶嵌流程。主要是将主石、配石固定在各自的镶口上，这是一个非常重要的精密工序。

通过显微镜进行镶嵌

8 抛光和表面处理

镶嵌完成后，进行最后的抛光。确保金属表面光亮如镜。最后使用激光打标设备在指定位置进行刻字工序。


电镀后的首饰



9 质量检验

设计团队不光要对最终成品进行质量检验，更需要对珠宝制造的每个阶段进行质量控制，这对一个完美的设计是绝对必要的。

质量检验—检查每个镶爪和镶口的工艺质量

对外观、结构、表面进行最后的检查。

完成！

看到这里，是不是对珠宝设计和制作有了更深的了解？的确，一件美丽的珠宝不仅凝聚着珠宝设计师和工艺技师的心血，严苛的工艺质量体系将保证每件首饰都是完美的作品，而且，这样的一件专属珠宝，无疑是最适合自身品味与气质的佩戴首饰，更是一件有价值的收藏品！

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